10G-HW Troubleshooting
Most ACTIV 10G-HW issues clear up by toggling the disconnect switch off and back on. If that doesn't fix it, the steps below walk through the most common causes in order. Try them in order. Each step is something almost anyone can do, except where electrical work is required.
The ACTIV 10G-HW only works with Ethernet (the kind of network signal that carries internet, IP phones over data networks, file sharing, and so on; technically called TCP/IP). It will not pass cable tester signals, certain phone systems, or other equipment that uses the same kind of cable but isn't actually Ethernet. The only real way to test the filter is to put it between two devices that you know speak Ethernet to each other and confirm they can still talk.
The ACTIV 10G-HW also does not pass Power over Ethernet (PoE). If the connected device isn't powering up, either give it an alternate power source or look at the ACTIV POE, which passes both the data and the power.
Step-by-step diagnosis
Try these in order. Most issues are resolved by Step 1 or Step 2.
Toggle the disconnect switch off and back on.
This step solves most issues, and it confirms the filter is receiving power. If there's no power at the filter, the issue is on the building-wiring side, which requires a qualified electrician.
This solves most problems. The ACTIV 10G-HW is wired to building power through a disconnect switch, which should be located near the junction box that supplies the filter (this is required by the original installation). Turn the disconnect switch off, wait about ten seconds, and turn it back on. The Power LED (red) should come on right away. The Link Speed LEDs on each side should light up within a few seconds as the filter re-establishes its connections.
If you don't see the disconnect switch, follow the 120VAC supply wiring back toward the building's breaker panel. If you don't find a disconnect switch along the way, the filter was not installed per the original installation instructions, and you may need to use the breaker that supplies that circuit at the panel to power-cycle the filter.
If the Power LED does not come on after toggling the disconnect (or the breaker), the issue is on the building-wiring side of the filter. Do not attempt to test or service the 120VAC wiring yourself. Contact a qualified electrician to verify that voltage is being delivered to the junction box and that the Class 2 transformer feeding the filter is functioning. If the wiring is confirmed good and the filter still shows no power, contact us. We'll arrange an RMA.
Reset the filter and the connected device together.
This step clears any stuck network address on the connected device that the filter reset alone won't fix.
If just resetting the filter didn't help, the device behind the filter (the computer, server, instrument, or whatever the filter is feeding) may be stuck on a temporary network address it gave itself when the connection briefly dropped (called an APIPA address, in the 169.254.x.x range). Toggle the disconnect switch off and turn off the connected device. Wait ten seconds. Turn the disconnect switch back on first, give the filter a few seconds to come up, then turn the connected device back on. The connected device will request a fresh network address on startup and rejoin the network normally.
Restart everything from the network side and working downward.
This step restarts the entire chain in the right boot order so each device connects to a healthy upstream connection.
If neither reset worked, restart everything starting from the network side and working downward. Power off the connected device, toggle the disconnect switch off, then power off your switch or router. Wait ten seconds. Turn things back on starting from the switch or router, then the filter (disconnect switch on), then the connected device. Always from the network side downward, with each piece given a few seconds to come fully online before turning on the next. This avoids the address-stuck problem from Step 2.
Check the cable connectors for bent or crushed pins.
This step rules out physical damage at the cable connectors before testing for cable or filter failure.
Look at both RJ-45 jacks on the filter and at the connectors on each cable. Make sure the metal pins are straight and even with no obstructions. If any look bent or crushed, the cable plug or the filter jack may be damaged. Reseat both cables firmly. If you suspect a cable, swap it for one you know works.
Bypass the filter to confirm the cables and the network are good.
This step verifies the cables, the network, and the connected device are all functional. If they all pass and the filter still doesn't, the filter is the cause.
Unplug both cables from the filter and connect them together with an RJ-45 coupler. If the connected device now reaches the network, the cables and network are fine and the filter needs to be replaced. If it still doesn't work, the problem is one of the cables, the connected device, or the network, not the filter.
If you don't have an RJ-45 coupler, test each cable separately by using one cable to connect the network directly to the connected device. You may need to either use a longer cable or move the connected device closer to the network connection to do this. If the device reaches the network with one of the original cables, that cable is fine; test the other the same way.
Contact us.
If you've worked through Steps 1 through 5 and the filter is the cause, contact us. We'll arrange an RMA and take it from there. All ACTIV Ethernet filters carry a two-year warranty from the date of first sale. See the warranty page for details.
Common questions
Need additional help?
Contact our engineering team for installation support, troubleshooting, or warranty service.