Product Support

v3 Troubleshooting

Most GigaFOIL v3 issues clear up by unplugging the filter and plugging it back in. If that doesn't fix it, the steps below walk through the most common causes in order. The GigaFOIL v3 has no LED indicators, so most of the diagnosis comes from process of elimination.

Legacy Product

The GigaFOIL line is no longer in production. Existing units remain supported under their original warranty. GigaFOIL filters cannot be repaired; if the troubleshooting steps below indicate the filter has failed, the direct upgrade path is the ACTIV 10G, which fits the same shield-wall penetration (1" NPS) and supports up to 10Gbps.

Before You Troubleshoot

The GigaFOIL only works with Ethernet (the kind of network signal that carries internet, file sharing, and similar; technically called TCP/IP). It will not pass cable tester signals, certain phone systems, or other equipment that uses the same kind of cable but isn't actually Ethernet. The only real way to test the filter is to put it between two devices that you know speak Ethernet to each other and confirm they can still talk.

Troubleshooting

Step-by-step diagnosis

Try these in order. Most issues are resolved by Step 1 or Step 2.

Step 1

Unplug the filter and plug it back in.

This step solves most issues. The GigaFOIL v3 has no LED indicators, so confirmation that the filter is back online comes from restored network connectivity, not from a visual check.

This solves most problems. Pull the small barrel plug out of the filter, wait about ten seconds, and plug it back in. Allow about thirty seconds for the filter to fully reconnect to the network and the connected device.

If you have a multimeter, verify that the power adapter is delivering its rated output. The GigaFOIL v3 uses a 5V / 2A adapter; the multimeter should read 5VDC or slightly higher. A failed power adapter is one of the two most common causes of a GigaFOIL v3 failure (the other is a failed circuit board inside the filter, which cannot be repaired). If the adapter is delivering 5V correctly and the filter still doesn't work, continue to the next steps.

Step 2

Reset the filter and the connected device together.

This step clears any stuck network address on the connected device that the filter reset alone won't fix.

If the filter reset alone didn't help, the device behind the filter (the computer, server, instrument, or whatever the filter is feeding) may be stuck on a temporary network address it gave itself when the connection briefly dropped (called an APIPA address, in the 169.254.x.x range). Unplug the filter and turn off the connected device. Wait ten seconds. Power the filter back on first, give it about thirty seconds to come up, then turn the connected device back on. The connected device will request a fresh network address on startup and rejoin the network normally.

Step 3

Restart everything from the network side and working downward.

This step restarts the entire chain in the right boot order so each device connects to a healthy upstream connection.

If neither reset worked, restart everything starting from the network side and working downward. Power off the connected device, then unplug the filter, then power off your switch or router. Wait ten seconds. Turn things back on starting from the switch or router, then the filter, then the connected device. Always from the network side downward, with each piece given a few seconds to come fully online before turning on the next.

Step 4

Check the cable connectors for bent or crushed pins.

This step rules out physical damage at the cable connectors before testing for cable or filter failure.

Look at both RJ-45 jacks on the filter and at the connectors on each cable. Make sure the metal pins are straight and even with no obstructions. If any look bent or crushed, the cable plug or the filter jack may be damaged. Reseat both cables firmly. If you suspect a cable, swap it for one you know works.

Step 5

Bypass the filter to confirm the cables and the network are good.

This step verifies the cables, the network, and the connected device are all functional. If they all pass and the filter still doesn't, the filter is the cause.

Unplug both cables from the filter and connect them together with an RJ-45 coupler. If the connected device now reaches the network, the cables and network are fine and the filter has failed. If it still doesn't work, the problem is one of the cables, the connected device, or the network, not the filter.

If you don't have an RJ-45 coupler, test each cable separately by using one cable to connect the network directly to the connected device. You may need to either use a longer cable or move the connected device closer to the network connection to do this. If the device reaches the network with one of the original cables, that cable is fine; test the other the same way.

Step 6

Contact us.

If Steps 1 through 5 indicate the filter has failed, contact us. The GigaFOIL v3 cannot be repaired; we can help you with warranty service if your unit is still under its original two-year warranty, or with an upgrade to the ACTIV 10G, which fits the same 1" NPS threaded penetration in your shield wall.

Common Questions

Common questions

I'm seeing radio frequency emission or hearing noise from the filter. Is something wrong?

A.The GigaFOIL v3 is an active filter and produces a small amount of radiated emission. The filter is engineered to keep these emissions as low as physically possible, but you may be able to detect them. What often makes it worse is mismatched cable shielding at the extension. If you're running shielded CAT cable, use a shielded extension; if you're running unshielded cable, use an unshielded extension. Mixing the two creates a discontinuity at the transition that compromises shielding effectiveness. If you're seeing emissions or noise issues, the simplest fix is to remove the extension entirely and connect the device directly to the filter with a single cable.

My GigaFOIL v3 has failed and I need to keep this connection running. What are my options?

A.GigaFOIL filters cannot be repaired. The direct upgrade path is the ACTIV 10G. The ACTIV 10G uses the same 1" NPS threaded penetration as your GigaFOIL, which means the existing hole in your shield wall does not need to be modified. Differences: the ACTIV 10G is an active DSP-based filter (the GigaFOIL is fiber-optic-based), supports up to 10Gbps (the GigaFOIL is limited to 1Gbps), and uses a 12V / 2A external power adapter. Contact us for upgrade pricing and a recommended configuration.

Does the type of CAT cable matter? Shielded versus unshielded?

A.For data, no. The GigaFOIL passes the Ethernet signal regardless of cable shielding. Use what your installation has in the wall.

Are there any markings or discoloration on the filter housing I should worry about?

A.No. Some GigaFOIL units show small markings or discoloration on the housing exterior. These are cosmetic, caused by the high heat of silver soldering during manufacture, and have no effect on filter performance.